Have you ever come across a recipe that is so
obviously bad you wonder why anyone would create it, never mind publish it
somewhere? I found one in a home décor catalog recently that had me alternately
laughing and gagging.
The recipe is titled Oriental Salad, although
the only “Oriental” ingredients are soy sauce and bok choy. The directions
invite us to toss together 1 head of this Chinese cabbage, chopped “fine,” and
2 bunches of scallions, chopped, as well as 4 ounces of slivered almonds. So
far, boring but not awful, although there will be nearly equal amounts of
cabbage and onion. To this, we are supposed to add 2 packages of ramen noodles
(about 6 ounces total), without the flavor packet, after mashing them and then
sautéing them in ½ cup of butter,
i.e., one whole stick, one-quarter pound. Good lord! That’s enough butter to lavishly
lubricate a pound of cooked pasta. And what exactly is the point of sautéing
the ramen in butter?? (That much butter would be more like poaching them.) That’s
not how you cook dried noodles, even those that have been parboiled, as ramen
have (that’s why they cook so fast), and butter in no way qualifies as an
Oriental ingredient.
Now we move on to the dressing, and it gets
much worse. The recipe would have us mix 2 tablespoons of soy sauce with ½ cup
olive oil, ½ cup cider vinegar, and 1 cup
of sugar. Where do I begin to catalog what’s wrong with this? First, the
proportion of oil to acid is wrong; the usual ratio is 2 or 3 to 1, not 1 to 1.
Then, there is nothing Oriental about olive oil or cider vinegar, and there
will be nothing Oriental about the flavor. Two tablespoons of soy sauce is too
much salt. There’s way too much dressing for the amount of solids. Finally, a
full cup of sugar is such overkill it will render the entire mess inedibly
sweet to anyone over the age of 5. The
directions tell us to pour the dressing over the solids and let it “set—the
longer it sets the better it tastes (overnight is a good time frame).” After 24
hours, the chopped cabbage will be thoroughly wilted and so enveloped in fat and
sugar as to be irrelevant, and the sharpness of the scallions will be lost. The
crunch of the bland butter-coated ramen will compete with the crunch of the bland
almonds, and the only discernible flavors will be sugar, fat, and salt.
Let’s transform this recipe into something both
edible and Oriental. We can start with 1 head of chopped bok choy or napa
cabbage and 1 bunch of chopped scallions. We’ll add 1 cucumber, split in half,
seeds scraped out, and sliced into ½-inch half-moon pieces, to add juiciness
and freshness. To make it an entrée salad, we can add about ½ pound of diced cooked
chicken seasoned with ginger, garlic, and lemongrass. For the dressing, we’ll
use ¼ cup of rice vinegar, ½ cup of peanut or other flavorless oil, 1
tablespoon of soy sauce, 1 tablespoon of sugar, I tablespoon of sesame oil, and
1 teaspoon of ground ginger. We’ll omit the almonds but retain 1 package of
ramen noodles, sans flavor packet, and break them into small pieces. Instead of
sautéing the ramen, we will let them soak in the dressing for 1 to 3 hours to
soften before tossing them with the other ingredients in a large bowl and
serving immediately. And there you have it, a delicious salad with about 80%
less fat, 94% less sugar, and a great deal more flavor, suitably adult and recognizably
Oriental.
I am dying to know if the perpetrator of the
original recipe ever actually prepared this salad and ate it—and really thought
it was not only okay but worth sharing. Years ago, the New York Times outed Emeril Legasse as a fraud whose recipes seldom
worked and who relied on showmanship to build his following of, we can only
suppose, noncooks. Did it have any effect on his popularity? No. I find that
sad.
This
is article 25 in a continuing series. © 2012 Christine C. Janson